Saturday, February 23, 2008
The Jewelry of an Epic Bollywood Movie
When I started this very different kind of jewelry blog, I did not know I would one day be writing about a Bollywood movie! Goes to show there is always a first time.
Jodhaa Akbar by the Academy Award nominated writer-director, Ashutosh Gowariker ("Lagaan" in 2001) is epic in scope as well as length (over 3 hours). There was much excitement and anticipation leading up to its release last week. It caught my attention because of two things - the fabulous jewelry and costume design and it was about Akbar (1542-1605), the greatest of all the Mughal (Moghul) Emperors of India and the Rajput princess he married.
I watched the movie trailer and was amazed at the wonderful jewelry created by a team of 80 stylists from Tanishq, a leading Indian jewelry manufacturer. What was more astounding was the use of real gemstones and gold for the film. Considerable research went into creating authentic period pieces. Besides the pearls, rubies and emeralds, unfaceted diamonds were used - Indian craftsmen of that era produced mostly polished diamond cabochons.
The Mughal Emperors were descended from the Mongol leaders, Tamburlaine and Genghis Khan. The Mongols were fearsome warriors - one custom was to build mortared pillars made out of the heads of their vanquished enemies. The first six Mughals were powerful and impossibly wealthy rulers of much of India and parts of Afghanistan in the 16th and 17th centuries. Noted for their great military and administrative skills, they were also staunch patrons of the arts and sciences - they left behind a wonderful legacy of Mughal architecture and a sophisticated system of government later adopted by the British.
Dīn-i Ilāhī based on the best elements of several religions in an effort to unite his subjects. He abolished, at a cost to his treasury, taxes imposed upon Hindu pilgrims and "non-believers" and welcomed Hindus into his civil service. He realised the stability of his nation was dependent on the harmonious coexistence of the two main religious groups.
The movie is about the romance between him and a Hindu Rajput princess along the lines of "as he conquered lands, he also had to conquer her heart." He was not the first Muslim ruler to marry a Hindu woman but he was the first to allow her to practice her own faith if she so wished. It was a shrewd marital alliance for the Rajputs were fierce Indian warriors - it was best to have them on his side.
Like all movies, this one was meant to entertain, not deliver historical accuracies. The filmmakers cheerfully acknowledge Jodhaa wasn't really her name. Nor is it clear if the heroine was supposed to be the first Rajput princess he married, and mother of his heir, Jahangir. Akbar actually married a few Rajput princesses - he really made sure they were on his side! His harem consisted of over 300 wives, many of whom he married for purely political reasons. Was the love truly grand like that of his grandson, Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal for his beloved? Alas no, according to the historian and author, Bamber Gascoigne (see reference below), Akbar did have some preferences but only his mother received his strongest affection.
Still, because of the lavish production and all that jewelry, both masculine and feminine, I will be looking for this movie in my local video store when it comes out (Update : whole movie in parts with English subtitles is available on Youtube). This Indian production is free of nudity, profanity, and outright goriness typical of today's Hollywood epic fare. Even elephants shown on the movie looked as if they were having a good time on the set earning their sweet treats - not at all like the famed Indian fighting elephants long ago which so terrified invading armies. I won't mind the English subtitles either for I am better off than Indian audiences who must understand both the Urdu spoken by Akbar and pure Hindi spoken by the princess.
It will be the first Bollywood movie I will rent/see. As I said, there is always a first time for everything.
More to enjoy :
The Jewels and Jewelry Obsession of Shah Jahan Akbar's grandson had a major jewelry obsession - his hoard was so vast, cataloguing it all would have taken years.
Tammy's Indian Style Bracelet In the trailer, there is one scene where Jodhaa wears what looks like a pearl and ruby bracelet with finger extension. Tammy is one beader who created her own based on this style of jewelry.
Via Jewels Stones and Future Movies
BBC's The Mughal Empire
Bamber Gascoigne (2002). The Great Moghuls : India's Most Flamboyant Rulers. Constable and Robinson Ltd, London.
Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
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