I have been busy designing new laser wood cuts which can be used as they are - after sanding, staining/painting and sealing - or can be used as beadwork foundations for fast beading projects!

The shape I "played" with is the hemisphere combined with a circle. The variations include a wheel inspired style, large cut out circles and a Japanese look.  I have two sizes available in the store. All are 10% off from today until next Monday, March 2.

The collection is not complete as I still have to offer a smaller version of the Japanese inspired style. 

I added holes to the smaller versions so these can work as dangles.

But turn them upside down and they will look different!  The holes become opportunities to add dangles, charms and tassels.  I used the lovely Ethnic spike charms, courtesy of Tierracast!

The large Japanese style ones are best for statement earrings. I like them in gold metallic paint. Very light to wear.

 The no-hole wood fans make excellent stud earrings.  The score lines I added will help you paint.  I used wood stains, blue acrylic paint, silver and bronze metallic acrylic paint. The Sargent metallic acrylic paint collection is highly recommended for quality and coverage.

You can also add beads to two of the design styles. These turned out looking like UFOs!

The half wheel styles are the most versatile. Again, turning them upside down gives them a different look. These are the larger ones which can be used as statement earrings or pendants.

I think I see an Aztec style when the frame is this way round and beaded in the circular area!


I recommend you use beading techniques to add the beads.  It is too awkward to maneuver wire in and out of the gaps. The half-wheel fan frames are also too fragile to withstand the tightening of wire wraps.

1. Mandala Style Beading 
Just use a modified brick stitch, incorporating the wood frame, to add beads around the open circle of the half wheel tribal fan components. Watch how you space where the Fireline goes in the gaps so that the final result is even. What you do depends on the size of beads you choose.

The red arrows show where my thread was and should have been for symmetrical spacing.

2. Adding Beads without Bead Holes Showing

I used about 2-3 ft of Fireline and a beading needle - do not use long ones.  Add a stopper bead and then string along enough beads of the right size to fill the spaces.

Lay the beads out.

Wrap the Fireline from the front to the back of the frame. Bring the needle from the back to the front and go through the last strung bead.

Poke the needle to the back of the frame, then bring it up to the front on the next hole.

Go through the next bead. Then take the needle through to the back again.

Repeat until you get to the left side of the frame. Wrap the thread around the frame and come up before the first strung bead. Now sew through all the beads. You will notice there are now two threads showing on the front.

When you get to the last strung bead, wrap around the frame and bring the needle from the back to the front. Then go through that bead and take the needle to the back.

Flip the frame to the back and sew through all the beads. This will leave you with two threads showing on the wood all along. Make sure the threads are all tight before finishing up each end of the thread with half hitches. Dot with a bit of glue and cut the thread ends off.

3. Adding Beads with Holes Facing Up

I found it is much quicker to add beads with holes facing up using the twin needle method.  Cut a 2-3 ft length of Fireline. Wrap the thread around the left part of the frame at about the mid point.  Add beading needles to both ends.

Take each needle and pass through the seed bead from opposite directions.

Position the bead into place with the hole up. Both threads are on the front of the work at this stage.

Take the right needle and feed it to the back :

When you pick up the next bead, the threads will bracket the wood spoke.

Continue with the twin needle method to add the beads until you reach the other side of the frame.

Cross the threads at the edge of the frame and then twin needle it back to the beginning.  Wrap around that end and fasten off with half hitches. A touch of glue and trim off the thread ends.

I used  my iPhone 8+ for final product photography in natural light. I used  the Orangemonkie studio which comes equipped with LED lights - for artificial light photography in my windowless basement studio. The Foldio2 Plus is excellent . I use the Foldio3 with the extra light bar because I need the room for tutorial photography.  

My online class Easy Guide to Smartphone Jewelry Photography is now available. Read more about it here.  

Before You Go :


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Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
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