Earrings with dangles can be awkward. Depending on the focal you are hanging, you likely need two jump rings to attach it to the ear wire. This is not wrong. However, the earring is now longer.
I for one, don't like it overly long. So I like to eliminate jump rings altogether. There are two ways to do so.
No Findings
I often like to connect directly to the focal. But sometimes the focal - as in my laser cut wood pieces - is just too thick so the loop of the ear wire is not large enough to hook it up. The solution is to hand forge the ear wires with larger loops.
This tutorial shows you how to make ear wires with 3 mm loops. It is also useful for those of you who haven't yet learned how to make ear wires or if you need a recap.
First straighten 20 G wire. I used Parawire in silver. Nylon pliers like these are recommended if you do a lot of wire work. You can also get replacement tips when they wear out.
Cut approximately 2 x 2 1.2 inches of wire. You can use less if you prefer to have shorter ear wire ends.
Make the loop that will hook up the focal. I used the smaller 3 mm mandrel on my medium round Wubbers pliers.
No Wubbers? Just use a knitting needle gauge or something similar. Stick one end of your round nose pliers through the 3 mm hole. Mark the level with a marker pen. You can now make a loop which is 3 mm in diameter!
You should get a P shaped wire.
Beginners at my class often ask which way to go when making the main curve of the ear wire! Basically, we are going to make an "S". I used the larger mandrel (9mm) of my large round Wubbers for this step. Again, no Wubbers, no worries. Just use the barrel of a marker pen. With practice, you can make a pair of earrings simultaneously - especially with the Wubbers.
But seriously, I highly recommend getting the large round Wubbers as you can make so many things with it (see links at the end).
Fit both ear wires together and trip the ear wire ends. Remember to make sure the flat side of the cutters face the main part of the ear wires. This will ensure flush cuts.
Use broad nose pliers to simultaneously bend the wire ends. This little bend helps keep ear wires from being lost. Not totally full proof but better than with no bends.
Work harden the ear wires with several taps of a nylon hammer. Not too hard because we are NOT flattening the ear wires.
The last step is to debur. You can use a cup bur or wire rounder as it sometimes called. Just insert the wire end into the cup and rotate the tool until the wire end is smooth. I often just use a sanding pad and stroke the ear wire in one direction.
One reason why I leave this filing step after the hardening one is simple. The ear wire has been work hardened so it will keep its shape.
Open up the ear wire loop in a sideways fashion and work it through the focal.
Use your chain nose pliers and close up the loop. And you are done!
USING PINCH BAILS
The second way is to use pinch bails. The ones on the left below have little loops so one does not need any jump rings at all! See here for some prettier ones! The ones on the left can work but you need to make sure they can fit the hole such that the little stem pieces meet properly inside the hole.
You can see the difference below - on the left is the pinch bail. On the right is the typical jump ring combination. I much prefer pinch bails for a more finished look for all earrings, not just laser cut wood ones. See this past feature designer who also used pinch bails for her earrings.
Photography
I used my iPhone 8+ with the Camera+ 2 app. I used the Orangemonkie studio which comes equipped with LED lights - for artificial light photography in my windowless basement studio. The Foldio2 is particularly affordable. I use the Foldio3 because I need the room for tutorial photography. The final picture was taken in natural light.
My online class Easy Guide to Smartphone Jewelry Photography is now available. Read more about it here.
Before You Go:
- How to Use the Bail Forming Pliers Tutorials
- More Bail Forming Pliers Tutorials for Awesome Jewelry Making
- Bracelet Fastening Tool Tutorial
Disclosure
This blog may contain affiliate links. I do receive a small fee for any products purchased through affiliate links. This goes towards the support of this blog and to provide resource information to readers. The opinions expressed are solely my own. They would be the same whether or not I receive any compensation.
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Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
Jewelry Making Tips - Wire JewelryTips -Jewelry Business Tips
The pinch bails are a great idea!
ReplyDeleteI try to eliminate jumprings using bigger loops on hooks whenever possible. But if I had to choose between a jumpring and a pinch bail, I would go with a jumpring everytime as most cheap Chinese jewellery sets come with pinch bails and it doesnt look handmade. But then its my personal opinion
ReplyDeleteYou can get better quality ones. I prefer the stainless steel variety for a sleek look.
DeleteGreat help. Thanks
ReplyDeleteI like my earrings to swing when I move so that they catch the light and sparkle.
ReplyDeleteWith the first instructions do you find they swing much or are they more static?
Great tutorials Pearl - especially for those who don't know how to make their own earwires. It's simply so much cheaper. Just make sure you use hyperallergenic wire.
Nope, they are more static so not ideal for those who love the swing!
DeleteI learned something new!
ReplyDelete