Simple riveting is another excellent way to connect components together without a torch. The other common way is using wire work.  This tutorial of mine shows you how to rivet two  pendants or charms together for a unique design!  Along the way, I will share many tips and tricks as well as what I think of various tools I used.

The idea came when I received these pendants and charms for review. They are from Nunn Design's 2018 collection. The giveaway is still on until 6 pm today (June 25). They have a lovely rustic style. I particularly love the bees!

Tierracast also sent their eyelet riveting tool set and some rivets and washers. I have used their rivets before and love them. See How to Rivet a Leather Bracelet which uses compression rivets.  Depending on what you use, the pendants may not have enough space for compression rivets. This was the case for the pendants I used.

The rivets come in different lengths. I checked their size because I needed to know how big a hole I had to punch.  I used my metal gauge (for drill bits and bolts) -  you can get them from your local hardware store or buy these online.

Normally I use simple hole punching pliers like these. But they can only punch small holes. So I used my Euro Power Punch for this.  This can make those 3/32 inch holes I needed.  This punch can get through up to 16 G thickness with ease. If you have weaknesses in your hands, this is the puncher to get as it is effortless.  Changing the punch dies isn't difficult though it will take some practice to overcome the initial awkwardness.

Euro Power Punch Tool Set

But before punching, I placed the bee charm/pendant on the main pendant shape and marked the position of the hole to be.

Then onward to punching. Make sure you the punch is positioned exactly where you want it. I try and look from different angles.

Once punched, the eyelet rivet just about fits.  The length of the rivet you use will depend on the thicknesses of the two pendants you are using.

As the rivet was so close to the bee, I could not use the eyelet anvil.

I used a bit of painter's tape to temporarily hold both pendants together before hammering the rivet protruding at the back.   If you have room and need a tighter connection, use a washer at the back.

Hammering consists of several short sharp taps while changing the angle of the rivet tool. See Tierrcast's tutorial.  The instructor is Tracy Gonzales.

What the hammering does is to flatten and flare out the rivet at the back.

You could add another rivet to the design pair to keep the top pendant secure.  But also consider taking advantage of the upper pendant being able to swivel out.  Perhaps stamp something - a little secret message or initials?  I marked a spot and stamped a flower (ImpressArt stamp). These Nunn Design shapes are made for stamping! The impression was sharp.

I also tested out ImpressArt's Stamping Enamel. It works well as you can quickly cover the stamping with the acrylic ink.

It is not advantageous to use it on something like this little stamp.  The tip of a thin black marker pen can efficiently color the grooves of the stamping just as easily. But I can see that if you have a lot of stamping, it is much faster to use the Stamping Enamel.

There wasn't enough room to add a rivet for looks for the top hole of the pendant. So I just used a little Super New Glue  (not the regular Super Glue) to secure a tiny metal rondelle around the hole. A faux rivet!

But if you want to see a hidden stamping, don't do this! The stamping is not visible as the upper pendant cannot swivel far enough.

Are you like me in that you dislike having to add jump rings all the time to bails?  Nothing wrong with doing that except that it does make the pendant area longer.  So I like using this kind of pinch bails to avoid using a jump ring. 

Here is what happened to the copper bee charm! I just wanted you to know no tutorial ever goes smoothly. My first punch was out of line and the second attempt at correcting it was a dismal failure!

Fortunately I also received the bee design as buttons. So I removed the shank and riveted it to the main copper pendant. Notice I used different positions for the rivets? This combination meant the top design does not swivel.

Put the pendants on chains or cords and you are done!

Before You Go:

I used my iPhone 6S with the Camera+  app. I used  the Orangemonkie studio which comes equipped with LED lights - for artificial light photography in my windowless basement studio. The Foldio2 is particularly affordable. I use the Foldio3 because I need the room for tutorial photography. 

My online class Easy Guide to Smartphone Jewelry Photography is now available. Read more about it here.   


This blog may contain affiliate links. I do receive a small fee for any products purchased through affiliate links. This goes towards the support of this blog and to provide resource information to readers. The opinions expressed are solely my own. They would be the same whether or not I receive any compensation.
Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
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