The Beading Gem

Fun with multi coloured glass beads
Part 1 of 3

Most, if not all of us, would agree that working with colour is a lot of fun in jewelry design. Working with multi-coloured glass beads is doubly so.

Furnace or cane glass is made from large canes of glass consisting of smaller canes encased in clear glass which are then extruded and cut to form beads with distinctive stripes. What we see are the bands of colour but I often wish the glass makers would develop some way of placing the bead holes differently because the cross-section of cane glass beads are also very attractive.

I have had these cane glass beads for the longest time and wondered if anyone would ever see their potential. Perhaps they were just waiting for Gerry to come along! I love the way Gerry took the time to pick just the right selection of metallic, plain cube and seed beads to suit the cane glass beads she chose for her necklace and earrings. The resulting colour mix is simply elegant!

Beader Design #: 310
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Feature Designer

Dichroic comes from the Greek word dikhroos which simply means two-coloured. One of the modern meanings in optical terms refers to a material that can split visible light into different wavelengths(colours).

Dichroic glass has multiple ultra-thin layers of metal oxides - we're we're talking 3-5 millionth of an inch here - which gives the glass its special optical properties. The high tech versions are used in satellite mirrors and as special filters because these optical coatings can reflect or let through (transmit) certain wavelengths of light.

But the chameleon effect of the glass with its shifting play of colours is also irresistible to jewelry artisans like Nikki who hails from London, England. She uses glass fusing techniques to make her richly hued pendants like this one in rainbow colours. The process is laborious and time consuming. The order and the specific thickness has to be determined by the artisan to get the effect they want.

I asked Nikki recently how she makes her pendants. She says she stacks different colours of dichroic on top of each other, secured with glass glue and places them in the kiln cold. The kiln is heated to 850 degrees C and held for only 10-15 minutes before being turned off. But she has to endure a cooling period of around 12 hours. Only then can she choose which pieces she wants to surround in art clay silver (ACS).

She rolls some ACS into a long snake and pushes it around the chosen piece. It mustn't be too tight around the glass to allow for shrinkage. It is then dried on a hotplate before starting up the kiln process again. She allows the piece to go totally cold so the dichroic glass anneals (strengthens and hardens). This takes around 2 days!! She has learnt to her cost impatience results in cracked glass!

Nikki has developed her technique through trial and error - she says she doesn't know if it's right or not. But hey, if it works, don't knock it! She really wanted to make her dichroic different from the commonly seen square cabochons. And by doing it her way, she doesn't have to cut glass which is not her strong suit. I rather think her "organic" shapes are fun and funky!

She also does a range of jewelry making techniques besides dichroic glass. She recently posted her commission pendant with art clay silver finding decorated with an aquamarine - note that the gemstone was added after the piece was fired otherwise the colour of the aquamarine will be affected. What does she want to continue her craft? More time and a warmer shed!

Picture with kind permission from Nikki. You can find her on metalchasers.com (link no longer available) where you can ogle her gallery.

Learn More about Dichroic Glass Jewelry and Metal Clay

For those interested in learning more about art clay silver, the Art Clay World USA site has a long list of tips and techniques 

This free tutorial on how to fuse a simple dichroic glass pendant without the silver surround looks like it might be easier to start with. Same with Mimi Bolser's Create Quick Dichroic Pendants instructions.
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Colour Combinations to Consider
Part 3 of 3

Ruecian (Colourlovers.com) wrote in this blog post Forbidden Colour Combinations? in defence of the sayings "Red and Green should not be seen" and "Blue and Green should never be seen without something in between". There is no wrong or right and the post shows some lovely colour palettes that do work.

Grace's bracelet here is evidence how well red and green can go together - not just for Christmas time! She used emerald green goldish-framed window beads with red oval cloisonne beads . The ornate cloisonne set off the starkly framed green beads perfectly - both beads were balanced in their rich tones. A gold tone clasp was the only other adornment.

Related Post : Chinese Cloisonne : The Stained Glass Style of Bead Making

Beader Design #: 309
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Colour Combinations to Consider

Part 2 of 3

Yesterday's post garnered comments from designers who just love colour! Decors (Corra) uses the colour wheel before and also after the project to check if the contrast colours for her picture backgrounds will work. What a nifty tip!

Diana, being a web designer, highly recommends two websites - mezzoblue.com's article on colour schemes and particularly colourlovers.com. You might, as she has, start looking at things a whole new way.

Both Diana and Bette Jo are inspired by nature and things around them. I am not surprised because blue and green for example, are such natural, restful colours. Think of the ever-changing blue-green hues of the sea. Or the green fields meeting the blue sky in the horizon. There is also blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) but we won't go there!

Sharon, who has an artistic eye for colour, used both colours in this pictured necklace design. Her jumping off point was the lovely rectangular blue-green millefiore bead. She used quite a number of metallic beads to space out both the blues and the greens.

Let's also not forget this colour combination in gemstones. Try sodalite or lapis lazuli with green aventurine.

From Widget's Beads' Collection

Beader Design #: 308
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Colour Combinations to Consider
Part 1 of 3

Many beginners sport the wide-eyed deer look at the beginning of design sessions because they don't know where to begin. A decision on colour is first on the agenda. Colour combinations are also potential stumbling blocks. So here are some suggestions of colour mixes to consider if you haven't already done so.

Pink and black do go together very well and not just in jewelry, but also for clothes. They work because one is a "hot" colour and the other provides a dark, sharp contrast.

Yvonne is confident with colour. She chose these irregular brick-shaped warm pink mother of pearl (MOP) shell beads for her necklace and earrings. She kept the design very simple with just some cube beads with the MOP beads and plenty of black seed beads for the rest of her necklace. A trendy duo!

Beader Design #: 308


COLOR GUIDES

SoftExpressions.com is primarily a computer quilting concern but they do have several colour wheels and colour evaluators for sale which could be used by jewelry artisans to select glass and gemstone bead colour combinations.

The Pantone Shopping Colour Guide is another, formated like paint colour strips but bound like a fan. Pantone also do a Colorstrology Guide for $7.95 to determine your birthday colour and what it says about you. This different take to the astrological signs identifies 12 monthly colours and 366 (includes leap years) personal colours supposedly to help you understand how colour influences you and your life. Probably about as accurate as astrological predictions but it sounds like fun. Both guides are also available at Fire Mountain Gems.

Name That Colour by Chirag Mehta is a fun free tool to use to get the names of 1500+ colours - it might be a great way to get naming inspiration for your designs. The creator, who said it is a guy thing, freely admitted he had no clue what lavender and mauve looked like so he wrote this helpful application. An improved version called Colour Name & Hue by Daniel Fluck is particularly useful for colourblind people.

Margie Deeb's excellent book The Beader's Guide to Color is highly recommended especially for beadweavers to learn all about colour. There are many beautiful creations from featured designers which makes this book a delight. You can read a review by About.com's Paula Morgan here.


For more tutorials check out my Jewelry Making Tips

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Chewable Jewelry (no affiliation) is the creation of a US dentist, Helen Bloom Smith, who got the idea from her own twin nephews. The little tykes were grabbing her glass beaded bracelet and necklace to drool and teeth on. Not only was this dangerous but as a dentist she wondered what such hard material would do to developing tooth buds.

Young mothers rarely wear jewelry for those reasons. Yet, why shouldn't they be able to wear something pretty? Some eye-catching bling would surely deflect attention from the bleary eyes from lack of sleep! So Helen's idea for a chewable form of jewelry crystalised into a company which makes food-safe silicone bangles and pendants for trendy mothers to wear and for happy babies to chomp on. The material looks like resin but is identical to the soft material used for baby bottles and teething rings. Every part of the jewelry line is made from FDA approved materials.

The company is developing a miniature (and safe) line for older children for the colourful bangles have proven popular. The pendants could also be attached to backpacks. So I am not surprised to learn that this Chewable Jewelry line has been well received considering the recent scare about lead in some glass like Swarovski crystals, metal beads and toys. Just wearing jewelry with those kinds of beads though will not elevate lead levels in children but remember they do put things in their mouths and could swallow small components.

I was flabbergasted, when I read this CBC .ca news report about a recall of some 1000 pacifiers decorated with Swarovski crystals! The crystals were glued to the pacifier handles and guards. Talk about a double hazard - ingested lead and a risk of choking for baby windpipes are small. The craze for Swarovski crystals on just about everything has gone way over the top. The full recall notice from the US Consumer Product Commission is here.

Ingestion and inhalation are the two main ways, people, not just children get lead into their bodies. That is why leaded gasoline has been phased out. The most common cause of childhood lead poisoning is actually from lead contaminated household dust (deteriorating paint) particularly in older homes. The US and Canada did not phase out lead in paint until the late 1970's. Children under 5-6 are particularly vulnerable - high blood levels of lead are associated with learning disabilities, behavioural and other health problems.

Check the US Centers for Disease Control's pages on Toy Jewelry and Childhood Lead Poisoning and Toys and Childhood Lead Exposure. This CDC page also lists all lead recalls in jewelry and accessories.

If you live in California, and sell your jewelry via physical or online stores, a new law now requires you to declare to customers if any components do contain lead including Swarovski crystals. You can read the full article on Rena Klingenberg's blog.

More questions about lead and human health? Check out Health Canada's excellent FAQ section.
Other References
Wikipedia : Lead Poisoning
Health Canada : Lead-based paint
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Pre-formed hoops are handy to attach beads easily especially if one is not comfortable working with wire. Usually they are round but Debbie (Widget's Beads) has these less common pear-shaped ones in her collection.

Cathy used this shape to great effect. Single dangles with turquoise seed beads and round crackle beads just graze the lower edge of the earring findings. The overall effect suggests the dangles were fused to the "frame" which they were not. The big round beads also fitted the rounded the portion of the hoop which is pleasing to look at.

I also noticed there were evenly spaced notches along the metal of the finding to accommodate extra wire so one could do some nifty wire work if one wished.

From Widget's Beads' Collection

Beader Design #: 307
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Hoops are great findings not just for earrings but also for pendants. Here are two types of hoops that can be used. Anne created the earrings on the left using irregular pink mother of pearl (MOP) shell beads. The attachment for the dangle to the upper part of the hoop is already provided. The MOP beads were long enough to almost rest on the hoop itself which I quite liked as it suggests they were attached to the hoop which they were not.

Cathy used more substantial metal hoops which have drilled holes. These hoops have been popular at our workshops. You can see why because beads can easily be attached above, below and within the hoops, creating all sorts of design possibilities.

If you are itching to try some wire work, check out Ruby's tutorial on how to make wired hoops yourself and decorate it with beads using wire. Her tutorial is for a pendant but it can also be attached to jump rings and then onto earring findings. She also has other great tutorials on this page. I just love her nickname for it reminds me of my name!

Beader designs #: 305-306
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I don't know about you but I love chocolate and chocolate in ice-cream, cake and candy. However, I am not so sure about this chocolate, gold and diamond snake necklace.

A gold necklace has been covered with tiny chocolate "scales" in different shades of chocolate. Its tongue is actually a 20.08 carat brown diamond. The House of Boucheron, the famous French jeweler made it in collaboration with another famous Parisian establishment, the candy maker, La Maison du Chocolat. There is no known price tag but Boucheron is marking its 150th anniversary with this creation.

I can only presume whoever receives this necklace will get to eat the chocolate covering AND keep the gold and diamond necklace.

I wish you and yours a Happy Easter.

Via Trendhunter
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The word chatelaine is French and described the wife of the lord of a castle. It is also used for a type of bygone jewelry item popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. The chatelaine was a souped up key chain bearing many useful items, not just keys. It was typically hung from ladies' waistbands and belts and was worn by many housekeepers. In the 18th century, it was known as "equipage".

The chains attached useful objects such as scissors, thimbles, tiny books of devotions and even small screw top containers called "etui" containing anything from penknives, bodkins for threading ribbon through lace, nail file and tweezer combos and even breath freshening sweets (halitosis being an age-old problem). If the owner wasn't particularly wealthy, the material used would be steel (upper left) or some other base metal or pinchbeck, a gold tone alloy made from copper and zinc (upper right).

Wealthier people might have upgraded versions like the one below made from silver, gold, marcasite (pyrite) and pastes (early rhinestones but with more lead).


Some consider it the handbag's forerunner. But the chatelaine is also reminiscent of manicure and sewing kits and the Swiss Army knife.

Picture Source : Courtesy of © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Related Post : Bygone Jewelry : Queen Mary's Diamond Stomacher
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Jewelry Making Tips - Jewelry Business Tips 

Revitalising Jewelry Part 3 of 3

Let's face it. The typical medic-alert bracelet whilst potentially life-saving is as dull as ditchwater. Alice, who is diabetic, thought hers utterly boring, so much so she saved a newspaper article about trendy assessories for those with medical conditions. The article also featured a stylish medic alert bracelet from Creative Medical ID.

She brought it to a beading party, along with a pretty elasticated lampwork bead bracelet she had. This bracelet was actually accented with pewter beads. Alice saved them for another project after she took it apart.

The chain from the medic alert bracelet was removed but the lobster clasp was recycled. Alice added brass beads as spacers to tie in with the golden hue of the alert tag. She really appreciated the clasp at the tag end because when she put her revitalised bracelet, what she sees are those gorgeous lampwork beads not the tag!

Beader Design # : 304
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Revitalising Jewelry Part 2 of 3

My friends Cindy and Millie were checking out the jewelry section in our local Michaels store when Frances approached them for help. Frances is not a beader and the lack of knowledge plus the bewildering choices meant she did not know how to proceed with a necklace makeover. Cindy recommended she attend our next workshop (thanks, Cindy!) which she did.

Frances said she was so looking forward to the workshop because for the first time in twenty years, there was a chance she could finally wear a treasured necklace. She had carefully kept a choker necklace, a braided loop and button affair decorated with lovely leaf shaped mother of pearl (MOP) beads. It was an inheritance from a person she really cared about.

Unfortunately, chokers were so not her style. It also looked outdated. She preferred a simple princess length necklace. She said so long as she could reuse those leaves AND be able to wear the necklace, it will still remind her of the giver. So she set about removing the stitches which held MOP and seed beads to the braid (see the leftover braid, above right). The seed beads had to be discarded for they were worn.

The MOP leaves were double-holed and Frances had to use Fireline (crystal) to weave in and out of the leaves using a single large copper-lined seed bead in the front of each leaf. She also added plenty of creamy coloured freshwater pearls in between the leaves and towards the clasp. The result was a modern, fluid and informal necklace which thrilled Frances who now cannot wait to wear them when she goes on vacation.

Beader Design #: 303
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Revitalising Jewelry Part 1 of 3

Jewelry is meant to be worn. So if a piece gets broken, outdated, or is simply not one's style, then they can be fixed and revitalised. Over the next three days, I will be covering three "case histories".

Elasticated bracelets are great, up to a point. Even if they survive accidental snipping when trying to remove a sales tag, the elastic will eventually wear. Glass beads may be still rough inside the holes. So they will need restringing.

So Elizabeth had to do something about this once stretchy bracelet - a gift from a friend which she treasured. I suggested she went to a bar and toggle clasp for long term durability. And that was what she did. She also took the opportunity to add small frosted topaz coloured beads in between the large tiles, giving the design slightly more definition.

With the introduction of the clasp, one tile was left over - Elizabeth saved it. Perhaps it could be made into a matching pendant?

FREE STRETCH BRACELET TUTORIALS

Stretch bracelets are so easy to make and also to wear. No clasps are needed. Sizing is also much more flexible so these bracelets make great gifts for young and old. If you want to learn how to make different kinds of elasticated bracelets or need some new ideas, check out these sites :

Tammy Powley's basic primer for making a simple elasticated bracelet is suitable for beginners. I also like her elastic and pearl Grandmother bracelet because her bead choices upgraded this design. Double holed beads are perfect for elasticated bracelets - just watch this Youtube video from Auntie's Beads for a beautiful tiled creation. And don't forget stretchy straps for watches!

A beginner jewelry maker and reader recently emailed me to ask why her newly made elasticated bracelet is falling apart. Using the right knots, such as the square knot or the surgeon's knot and a bit of glue will keep it together. Knotting near a larger bead with a larger hole will enable hiding the knot. When cutting off the elastic ends, also be careful not to snip too close. Been there. Done that.

If you hate the knot and glue approach, here is another suggestion from BeadieFriends.com where you can use a large bead and a crimp bead for stretch bracelets. Personally, I would use two crimp beads on either side of the big hole bead with the elastic ends fed through the crimps and the large bead in opposite directions before crimping. This way the main/focal bead will be in line with the rest.

Friendship in Beading's Elastic Caterpillar Bracelet uses beadweaving techniques to make a pretty bracelet variation - more challenging than the straight strung variety but still easy.

With the right colours, this great elasticated cuff bracelet from Joann.com using Toho beads is sure to please.

Kelly Checketts's blog, knitonehugtoo has this neat knitted bracelet using double pointed needles, beads and elasticated metallic cord. This tutorial is strictly for private use only.

Beadage shows you not only how to make your own power bracelets but also provides some suggestions as to where you can get the necessary three hole beads.

Beader Design #: 302
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1. GIVEAWAYS

Free jewelry. Doesn't that sound great? A blogger I met online, Derek Semmler has a talented wife. She makes lovely jewelry and he is giving four of her designs (two are shown above). What do you have to do? Just leave a comment on his contest post. Just like fabulous cooks who still enjoy eating out, perhaps you'd like someone else design your jewelry for you for a change. Alas, the contest is only open to US residents above the age of 18 (read the rules at the end).

2. DESIGN COMPETITIONS

Want to flex that creativity muscle and win a prize? There is still time for the following:

Swarovski has announced their 2008 Be Naturally Inspired design contest . There are three categories - professional, amateur or student. Participants are encouraged to use different techniques, in fact anything goes - sewing, knitting, clay, beading etc. All applications must be in by May 16th, 2008. The top prizes will include international exposure for the designers by Swarovski and free trips to Austria. There are also substantial cash or gift certificate awards valued from $1000- $5000 for other winners.

Step by Step.com's Bead Arts Awards is open to any bead artist. This contest's three categories are different. The first is for loose. single or bead sets, the second for bead jewelry and the third for beaded objects. There are sub-categories too. Winning designs will be promoted online and in print. There is an entrance fee of $25. Their deadline is May 1, 2008.

Fire Mountain Gem's 2008 Beading Contest has many categories, some new this year. This contest closes on April 15, 2008. Prizes are in the form of gift certificates ranging from $50-$1000. The top designs may be showcased in their catalogs, websites and their full page ads in top industry magazines with the creators' names and information.

Bead&Button's Bead Dreams Competition is open until April 4, 2008. There are five categories - handmade beads or buttons, polymer clay, non-jewelry items, seed bead jewelry, crystal jewelry and finished jewelry. The entrance fee of $25 covers up to two submissions. Finalist designs will be on display at the Bead&Button Show to be held in Milwaukee, Wisconsin from June 4-8. The top prizes are to be awarded Fire Mountain Gem gift certificates valued from $500 - $1000. There are also other smaller prizes from their other sponsors. The contest info is here.

Think you are good enough? Then go for it and good luck!

Pictures with kind permission from Derek.
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I just installed a nice little tool on this site called Snap Shots from Snap.com. Thanks, Capitola Girl for the tip!

See the little icon that appears just after a link? Feed subscribers will have to click through to this blog in order to see it. If you hover your mouse over it, a preview pop-up will, in most part, allow you to look ahead and decide if you want to follow a link or not. As I link often to many reference and tutorial sites, I thought this tool may be useful, at least on a trial basis.

Should you decide this is not for you, just click the Options icon in the upper right corner of the Snap Shot and opt-out.

UPDATE : REMOVED with blog redesign
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You know, I would never have thought to put these red cathedral beads together with the red picasso beads. But Heather did. She must have noticed how well the grey metallic "caps" of the cathedral beads went with the grey picasso edging of the rectangular window beads. She also used black seedbeads to top off each dangle of this richly hued chandelier earrings.

I have to confess I made a mistake when I bought these red cathedral beads in the 6 mm size. I actually prefer my cathedral beads BIG so one can appreciate the metallic treatments to their ends. But after seeing Heather's pretty creation, I have changed my mind -I might just buy more of the smaller ones!!

Beader Design #: 301
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Debbie and I had a blast recently when a local Red Hat Society group, "The Ladies of the Lake", booked a private workshop with us. The Cole Harbour Heritage Farm's Tea Room was awash with red hats, red sweaters and a red and purple feather boa or two. These ladies were warm, friendly and enthusiastic - a credit to their organisation.

The Red Hatters breezed in, a number of them already sporting jewelry in their signature colours - red and purple. But of course, one always needs MORE. Finding red and purple jewelry must be quite difficult....unless you make your own. So a couple of them decided to create new earrings in time for their next social gathering.

Joan insisted she is not very artistic but she managed to pull off this very dangly chandelier earrings featuring round red and purple seed beads. Jennifer on the other hand, preferred a simpler dangle style mixing red Czech faceted beads with purple beads decorated with swirls. Two very different designs but then Red Hatters love it when all things are fun and different!

Beader Designs #: 299-300
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Ways with Wire : Part 3 of 3

Feature Designers

I wrote a previous post on the use of Chinese knots in jewelry making because beautifully braided cords can add another dimension to the pieces. My friend, Diana Norman's blog post shows how she successfully integrated Chinese knots with her specialty real flower jewelry. She (and she is not the only one) also raves about the best book ever on knotting - Suzen Millodot's Chinese Knots for Beaded Jewelry. For pictures of classic Chinese knots, check out this website.

I don't know who was the first artisan to apply Chinese knots to modern jewelry designs but I do know who is the first to do it in wire. Yes, you read right. Wire. I first stumbled upon Corra (de Cor's Handmades) of Malaysia in South East Asia on a jewelry forum. She says she hasn't been making jewelry all that long but as you can see, she definitely has a way with wire.

The above is her Love Knot- PIPA pendant. A pipa is a Chinese lute which inspired this design name. She used two colours and two different gauges of wire. Ten purple cat's eyes and a single focal freshwater pearl are painstakingly added layer by layer. The reverse side of the pendant reveals the difficulty level - for intermediate to advanced wire artists. If you love this design, Corra offers the tutorial on her Etsy store. She also applied the PIPA pendants with the Grass Flower knot in a bracelet which she showcased on her blog. Her metalchasers site has some hot new PIPA earrings with drops!



It is not easy to make this wire wrapped knot. Mei (Wire Bliss), another wire work artisan also from Malaysia and Corra's friend, wrote a candid blog post which showed her learning mistakes making the PIPA knot. But the result of much practising is the above version now on sale in her brand new Etsy store. These are post earrings with faceted prehnite briolettes, goldstone and freshwater pearls in a confection aptly named "Fruitful". You can check out what else Mei has been up to on her blog.

What I found astonishing is that both Corra and Mei use stainless steel for their wrapping. Although it is wonderful because it doesn't corrode or rust, anyone who works with metal will know stainless steel is much more difficult to bend than say silver and copper.

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Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
Jewelry Making Tips - Jewelry Business Tips 

Ways with Wire Part 2 of 3

Millie sure has a way with wire. Her wire wrapped rings are truly inspirational. The first ring on the left is a rose quartz bead delicately captured with little beads and fine wire work. The ring on the right is a crystal bead flanked by two filigree balls. There are so many combinations possible using beads and not just with one or three which is commonly used but several too as shown below. Introducing coiling is also another design idea.



Copper is an excellent choice when perfecting your wire wrapping technique before moving on to sterling silver. Inspired? Need some help? Then check out these tutorials :

(Update - I have corrected or removed some of the old links which didn't work any more. See more ring tutorials at the end of the post)

FREE TUTORIALS FOR WRAPPING AND COILING

Casey's simple wire wrapped ring tutorial on Across the Pond shows that you cannot see enough tutorials like this!


New from Beading Daily is this Ring-a-Ding wire ring tutorial using square wire.




If wire work is not your forte, then try this extremely easy bead and wire bangle tutorial. It's guaranteed to be fast!

More Ring Tutorials

• More Wire Wrapped Rings
• How to Make Button Rings
• Inspirational Wire Wrapped Rings (many tutorials)

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Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
Jewelry Making Tips - Jewelry Business Tips